Yesterday marked a new achievement for me in Guyana. I managed to live for one entire month within my honorarium allowance without dipping into my personal savings for the first time since arriving here! Whooppee! This feels like quite an accomplishment and one that several VSO’s (even some who have been here well over a year) have confessed they have never done. We receive a little over 50 Thousand GYD dollars, which sounds like a big fat Wall St. paycheque but in fact it translates into only a little over $250 per month Canadian.
It’s been a long time and perhaps never since I have had to live on that little money. Mind you VSO pays for my rent, electricity and gas additionally….so this amount is to cover all other living expenses only. I am painfully aware that many people here earn less than this amount AND still have to pay their own rent and utilities. So even as a volunteer I am relatively well paid, which is humbling and I find myself not wanting to share exactly how much we get for our expenses as it may seem too lavish. I am also aware that I have the luxury of even HAVING a savings account and credit cards if I need them, and a generous family back home. It may be trite to be discussing this as I can leave here anytime and have chosen to put myself into this lifestyle, where those who really live here have not. None the less it has still been a challenge for this 1st world latte and shoe loving girl to achieve and one that has taken me six months of trying. Trying to live within my means that is and coming from our credit and debt fueled 1st world culture, it does feel good to have met this challenge. So what do I spend all my thousands of dollars on ?(and yes all in CASH!) First I get a pay cheque and go line up at the bank for quite a few hours with my passport and VSO ID card and eventually get a thick wad of bills secured with an elastic band (yep!) which I then nervously transport home immediately lest I be robbed en route. I then buy each month:
Internet $3500 ($17.50) for high speed wireless (a huge luxury here for most), but a chosen essential for me as I need it for work and communications with home. Note This is a reduced price as several of us share the 10 thousand per month fee ($50) and the one wireless router.
Water. My roommate and I buy filtered drinking water in 20 litres reusable containers $1000 ($5)
Pool Membership. $4000 ($20) (Also a huge perk and way out of the price range of most Guyanese.) one trip to the pool is $1100 per person or a membership for 6 family members is $23,000 for a month. Myself and five other VSO’s have formed a pool “family” (aww.. and hello family!) Being able to have somewhere to swim in this climate is so appreciated and I try and go and well appreciate it every day.
Laundry. I pay $2000 ($10) per month for four loads of laundry washed dried and folded (basically once per week for my sheets and towels) This transaction not only helps my neighbour’s wallet but myself as I have really struggled to wash sheets by hand and then wring them out properly....in fact I suck at washing sheets! She has an old fashioned washing machine, which helps me to feel a bit less guilty about the whole transaction. I do all of my other laundry by hand in cold water....just saying!
Cel Phone $2000 ($10) I buy four $500 top up cards each month. All cel phones here are pay as you go and you add money as needed with lottery style scratch cards...and really they are cheap, cheap, cheap. So cheap that most Guyanese keep two phones one for each telephone company so you can maximize benefits and free texts. In fact I am paying more to NOT use my still under contract blackberry back in Canada, than for my pay as you go phone here. Food for thought as we Canadians reportedly pay the most for cellular service of anywhere in the world.
Land Line Telephone. 500 ($2.50) We didn’t ask for this phone..it is just there in the flat and we have to pay our part of the bill..no one calls us on it except our landlady and of course many amusing wrong numbers...personally I think it is well worth the $2.5 just to able to get some of these calls.
So that totals just about 12 thousand dollars ($60) which leaves me basically about fifty bucks a week to buy all my food, drinks, any meals out, toiletries, cleaning supplies, bike repairs, clothing, (hah!) household items, entertainment, (hah again) and evening transportation (taxis are $1.50 each). My average weekly grocery and market bill is $6000($30) so it leaves me about $4000 ($20) a week for everything else. It’s definitely tight....but apparently it is do-able...as I did it!! I just had to stop indulging in $7 jars of olives, $5 lattes, and that nice smelling expensive hair conditioner. Oh and I finally figured out what drinks are really, really cheap at the bar!
So cheers to me for living within my meagre means (and I will attempt to do so again next month)...and I even had $6 thousand to spare this month....which will buy exactly 2 bottles of olives and 3 lattes!
Thursday, January 27, 2011
Sunday, January 23, 2011
What I love about Guyana
In a few weeks I will have been living in Guyana for six months.....and although living in a third world country does pose some challenges, and I have been experiencing a little bit of the predicted six month slump these past few weeks, there are many things I have learned to love about living in this country...so I will share all these perks in an effort to focus on the positive and be thankful for the amazing opportunity of living and working here.
Sunshine on a winter’s day ...As hot and humid and torrentially wet it can get here sometimes it is still always a summer day...and a summer day always beats a winter day....well doesn’t it? There is a little thrill I get inside my Canadian self each January day that I can dress in shorts, a light top and sandals and never have to worry about bringing a jacket, mittens or a hat as I walk out the door.
Tropical fruits of all kind...I love the fresh tart pineapples, mangos picked from a tree, the cat size red glossy papayas, the subtly exotic passion fruit, the elusive guavas, childhood tasting water melons, fragrant tangerines, the plump limes, the mini George of the Jungle bananas and the exciting spectacle and taste of a freshly macheted green coconut.... to which I may have a mild addiction.
My two wheels.... I used to say that my next car would be no car and I am living the dream folks. Even if is a two cent piece of shit bike that could be stolen or break down at any moment, she’s all mine and I love her. I truly enjoy the effortlessness of biking to and from work, seeing all the sights from the perch of my bicycle seat and loading up my basket with whatever I need to carry. The other day I was walking at the market without my bike on the way home from a trip to the regions and one of my regular vendors said to me...”Hey girl.. where’s dat pretty blue bicycle that matches your eyes today?” It seems she gets missed by others too when she is left at home!
Animal Farm...I get to see animals here every day, and many that are long extinct from urbanity and I delight in each donkey, horse and herd of goats I see in the city limits. I love the bored and melancholy look of the donkeys parked by the roadside. I love the focused look a horse gets when he is barrelling towards you at an intersection…”I’d advise you get out of the weighhhh”…you can practically hear them. And I love the goats that seem to be used as...well.. hedge trimmers! And then there are the birds... the squawking swooping parrots, the serious brooding falcons, the perky egrets and shrill song birds are each a wonder to behold. Even the street dogs, who at first deeply appalled and disturbed me, I have now embraced as a just a different way to be a dog. The restraints that we put on our pets (although they come with a regular meal, a place to sleep, and veterinary care) begins to seem almost archaic when you see thriving packs of wild dogs, each with their own hood, pups, sand pile and turf. I have seen dogs grieve over killed dogs, carrying pups in their mouths, digging tunnels, making out (doggie style), sleeping peacefully in packs with a small burro dug in their sand hill and I’ve even seen dogs fishing together out in the ocean tides at night. I still cringe to see the state of some of these animals, and have seen enough dead dogs to last me a life time... but they are also free in a way many dogs locked into condos all day probably long for.
Down on Main St.. I love that you can buy almost anything on the street. You can buy a cold drink, (beer, rum and vodka included) to underwear on a stick, hot food, fresh baking, corn on the cob (with gravy!!), freshly cut fruit, fresh squeezed juice (sold in a plastic bag with a straw), hair supplies, egg and chicken sandwiches, shoes, candies, deep fried anything, plantain chips, fresh nuts, sugar cane, candy floss, cheese rolls, DVD’s, ice slushies, perfume,…rat poison, school supplies...almost anything you might need on your way home from work is right there.... and you can even pay to weigh yourself right on the street corner...LOL!
The beautiful and interesting people I get to talk to....No matter what life here is not dull, everyday someone does or says something funny, amusing, curious, tragic, interesting, challenging, against my values, appalling, upsetting, kind, caring, insightful, tender, insulting, or overly forthright and this variety of conversation is so unlike what you experience at home. There are certainly no boring Canadian style stranger conversations about traffic jams, mortgage rates, or the weather. I love the surprise of my human interactions here....and how people reach out to you. The other day I was riding in the very hot sun on my bike and a man pulled over in his car and asked if I needed an umbrella to shade me......I declined but thanked him and as he drove away I thought of how genuinely kind and rare his offer was...and how generous and how much more often we should practice random acts of....umbrella sharing.
Sunshine on a winter’s day ...As hot and humid and torrentially wet it can get here sometimes it is still always a summer day...and a summer day always beats a winter day....well doesn’t it? There is a little thrill I get inside my Canadian self each January day that I can dress in shorts, a light top and sandals and never have to worry about bringing a jacket, mittens or a hat as I walk out the door.
Tropical fruits of all kind...I love the fresh tart pineapples, mangos picked from a tree, the cat size red glossy papayas, the subtly exotic passion fruit, the elusive guavas, childhood tasting water melons, fragrant tangerines, the plump limes, the mini George of the Jungle bananas and the exciting spectacle and taste of a freshly macheted green coconut.... to which I may have a mild addiction.
My two wheels.... I used to say that my next car would be no car and I am living the dream folks. Even if is a two cent piece of shit bike that could be stolen or break down at any moment, she’s all mine and I love her. I truly enjoy the effortlessness of biking to and from work, seeing all the sights from the perch of my bicycle seat and loading up my basket with whatever I need to carry. The other day I was walking at the market without my bike on the way home from a trip to the regions and one of my regular vendors said to me...”Hey girl.. where’s dat pretty blue bicycle that matches your eyes today?” It seems she gets missed by others too when she is left at home!
Animal Farm...I get to see animals here every day, and many that are long extinct from urbanity and I delight in each donkey, horse and herd of goats I see in the city limits. I love the bored and melancholy look of the donkeys parked by the roadside. I love the focused look a horse gets when he is barrelling towards you at an intersection…”I’d advise you get out of the weighhhh”…you can practically hear them. And I love the goats that seem to be used as...well.. hedge trimmers! And then there are the birds... the squawking swooping parrots, the serious brooding falcons, the perky egrets and shrill song birds are each a wonder to behold. Even the street dogs, who at first deeply appalled and disturbed me, I have now embraced as a just a different way to be a dog. The restraints that we put on our pets (although they come with a regular meal, a place to sleep, and veterinary care) begins to seem almost archaic when you see thriving packs of wild dogs, each with their own hood, pups, sand pile and turf. I have seen dogs grieve over killed dogs, carrying pups in their mouths, digging tunnels, making out (doggie style), sleeping peacefully in packs with a small burro dug in their sand hill and I’ve even seen dogs fishing together out in the ocean tides at night. I still cringe to see the state of some of these animals, and have seen enough dead dogs to last me a life time... but they are also free in a way many dogs locked into condos all day probably long for.
Down on Main St.. I love that you can buy almost anything on the street. You can buy a cold drink, (beer, rum and vodka included) to underwear on a stick, hot food, fresh baking, corn on the cob (with gravy!!), freshly cut fruit, fresh squeezed juice (sold in a plastic bag with a straw), hair supplies, egg and chicken sandwiches, shoes, candies, deep fried anything, plantain chips, fresh nuts, sugar cane, candy floss, cheese rolls, DVD’s, ice slushies, perfume,…rat poison, school supplies...almost anything you might need on your way home from work is right there.... and you can even pay to weigh yourself right on the street corner...LOL!
The beautiful and interesting people I get to talk to....No matter what life here is not dull, everyday someone does or says something funny, amusing, curious, tragic, interesting, challenging, against my values, appalling, upsetting, kind, caring, insightful, tender, insulting, or overly forthright and this variety of conversation is so unlike what you experience at home. There are certainly no boring Canadian style stranger conversations about traffic jams, mortgage rates, or the weather. I love the surprise of my human interactions here....and how people reach out to you. The other day I was riding in the very hot sun on my bike and a man pulled over in his car and asked if I needed an umbrella to shade me......I declined but thanked him and as he drove away I thought of how genuinely kind and rare his offer was...and how generous and how much more often we should practice random acts of....umbrella sharing.
Monday, January 10, 2011
The “Soft Skills” I Learned in 2010
Happy New Year! Having rung in the “Old Years Night” as they call it here in Guyana at home in 1st world amenity filled Canada by sipping vintage scotch and smoking Cuban cigars, I am now once again back in the developing world of Guyana to welcome the new year of 2011. Perhaps another encounter with a giant flying cockroach, another bike incident or two, more liming on the seawall, another job to complete, more roti’s to try and make as good as Celia’s, are all events that may await me this coming year. I hope to continue to progress with my volunteer work, my contribution to global society and to continue to acquire new skills and to challenge myself. Other VSO’s and myself have joked about the new skills we have all developed, some of these we have dubbed to be “soft skills” You know; the things that might not make it onto a C.V. or resume but that will serve you well in over all functioning. So here is my list of the top 5 soft skills I have developed in Guyana in 2010.
1. COLD SHOWERS 101 I now have the ability to take a cold shower anytime and anyplace. I occasionally still yelp on cooler days after the first dunking of the head into the chilly depths of the overhead spray, but actually cold water showers are very good for your lymphatic system and according to my hairdresser are also great for your hair and skin too! And well I have no option other than… “suck it up princess”.
2. Entomophobia or Insectophobia 202 I have developed a fear of giant flying insects in my face. I didn’t know I was afraid of this until it happened to me. It’s a good thing to know for future jungle encounters. I also am no longer afraid of trying to kill said giant insects as they attack me although some assistance from a valiant roommate and a whole bottle of lethal banned from 1st world insecticide is also helpful. This new fear has superseded my old fear of rats....I think. OK not rats in my face...just rats on the ground.
3. Bicycle Loading Ergonomics 303 This is an advanced course in how to transport things on two wheels. In this hands on method you learn to transport loose eggs, giant water bottles, loads of laundry, grocery bags, watermelons, flowers, ice, wooden art pieces, other passengers and still arrive alive. I am getting an A+ except for the umbrella section of the course work, where you ride one handed in the rain clutching an umbrella as I have almost crashed upon each attempt. I need a few remedial tutorials on this soft skill, but I have noticed the Dutch do it well.
4. Negotiations 406 I have studied theory on this most useful of skills back in my home country, but never had it tested to the limits as I have here. I have had to negotiate HARD with men, busses, taxis, at work, in seminars, buying food, with land ladies, police, street people, at trainings, with children vendors, street people, bus conductors, and in many other human encounters. Developing the skill to state what you need or can not do, or would like to do, firmly, fairly, diplomatically and without pissing anybody off is required to be utilized here most often. I feel I can negotiate with anyone now about anything, unreasonable dictators, bring them on…bitchy soccer moms…pushy phone sales reps... aggressive touts...HAH..I laugh at you all. No means no bitch!
5. Material Possession Awareness 503 The longer you live without some material items the more you realise they are not really needed in your life. I have now lived for the better part of five months without (in no particular order) a private living space, hot water, water you can drink from the tap, a hair dryer, a car, air conditioning, washing machines, dryers, a blackberry, a lavish wardrobe, good kitchen equipment, coffee shops, cable TV, movie theatres, an art studio, malls, comfortable furniture, butter, wine, cheese, chocolate, grapes, yogurt, and lattes and well I could go on.... All of these things will never again be taken for granted by me....and a hot shower alone will feel like a decadent small miracle to welcome back into my life.
Welcome 2011 and cheers to further learning about how to live on our shared planet, and to developing more skills, soft or not....Now where’s my umbrella and my bike?
1. COLD SHOWERS 101 I now have the ability to take a cold shower anytime and anyplace. I occasionally still yelp on cooler days after the first dunking of the head into the chilly depths of the overhead spray, but actually cold water showers are very good for your lymphatic system and according to my hairdresser are also great for your hair and skin too! And well I have no option other than… “suck it up princess”.
2. Entomophobia or Insectophobia 202 I have developed a fear of giant flying insects in my face. I didn’t know I was afraid of this until it happened to me. It’s a good thing to know for future jungle encounters. I also am no longer afraid of trying to kill said giant insects as they attack me although some assistance from a valiant roommate and a whole bottle of lethal banned from 1st world insecticide is also helpful. This new fear has superseded my old fear of rats....I think. OK not rats in my face...just rats on the ground.
3. Bicycle Loading Ergonomics 303 This is an advanced course in how to transport things on two wheels. In this hands on method you learn to transport loose eggs, giant water bottles, loads of laundry, grocery bags, watermelons, flowers, ice, wooden art pieces, other passengers and still arrive alive. I am getting an A+ except for the umbrella section of the course work, where you ride one handed in the rain clutching an umbrella as I have almost crashed upon each attempt. I need a few remedial tutorials on this soft skill, but I have noticed the Dutch do it well.
4. Negotiations 406 I have studied theory on this most useful of skills back in my home country, but never had it tested to the limits as I have here. I have had to negotiate HARD with men, busses, taxis, at work, in seminars, buying food, with land ladies, police, street people, at trainings, with children vendors, street people, bus conductors, and in many other human encounters. Developing the skill to state what you need or can not do, or would like to do, firmly, fairly, diplomatically and without pissing anybody off is required to be utilized here most often. I feel I can negotiate with anyone now about anything, unreasonable dictators, bring them on…bitchy soccer moms…pushy phone sales reps... aggressive touts...HAH..I laugh at you all. No means no bitch!
5. Material Possession Awareness 503 The longer you live without some material items the more you realise they are not really needed in your life. I have now lived for the better part of five months without (in no particular order) a private living space, hot water, water you can drink from the tap, a hair dryer, a car, air conditioning, washing machines, dryers, a blackberry, a lavish wardrobe, good kitchen equipment, coffee shops, cable TV, movie theatres, an art studio, malls, comfortable furniture, butter, wine, cheese, chocolate, grapes, yogurt, and lattes and well I could go on.... All of these things will never again be taken for granted by me....and a hot shower alone will feel like a decadent small miracle to welcome back into my life.
Welcome 2011 and cheers to further learning about how to live on our shared planet, and to developing more skills, soft or not....Now where’s my umbrella and my bike?
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